The recent controversy surrounding food during the Kanwar Yatra in Uttar Pradesh has sparked a heated debate, highlighting a troubling shift in the region’s political and social landscape. For years, the television program ‘Elections On My Plate’ has celebrated India’s unparalleled culinary diversity, reflecting the country’s unique ability to blend various food traditions. However, the recent actions by the Uttar Pradesh government regarding food during the Kanwar Yatra seem to threaten this harmonious cultural tapestry.
The Uttar Pradesh and Uttarakhand police’s decision to enforce strict regulations on food vendors during the Kanwar Yatra has been met with widespread criticism. The directive, issued by the Yogi Adityanath government, mandates that every street vendor and roadside restaurant prominently display the owner’s name. This move is seen by many as an attempt to sow division and exacerbate religious tensions.
The food diversity in India is a testament to its pluralistic society. From Amma’s Kitchen in Madurai, known for its Chettinad cuisine, to a Mughlai restaurant in Jaipur run by a Muslim family, and a dhaba on the Pune-Solapur highway serving mutton dishes, India’s food culture thrives on peaceful coexistence. The Kanwar Yatra food directive disrupts this tradition by potentially segregating establishments based on the religious identity of their owners.
The Uttar Pradesh government’s justification for the nameplate requirement—ensuring law and order—has been criticized as disingenuous. There is little evidence to suggest that the Kanwar Yatra has previously been marred by food-related disputes. Critics argue that the real intent behind the directive is to foster social segregation and sharpen religious polarisation.
Furthermore, the comparison of this directive to the controversy surrounding halal certification is misplaced. Halal certifications indicate food prepared according to Islamic dietary laws, but they do not target the owner’s religious identity. In contrast, the nameplate requirement directly signals an owner’s religion, fostering a discriminatory environment.
The controversy has also been exacerbated by a social media campaign targeting Muslim-owned food establishments, labeling them as impure and unhygienic. This narrative echoes the harmful stereotyping seen during the early Covid-19 pandemic, when Muslim vendors were unjustly blamed for spreading the virus. Such tactics not only undermine social harmony but also threaten the livelihoods of individuals based on their religious identity.
The timing of the controversy—just weeks after the BJP’s electoral setbacks in Uttar Pradesh—raises further concerns. The BJP, grappling with internal conflicts and factionalism, appears to be leveraging the Kanwar Yatra to reassert its Hindu credentials among core supporters. This strategy, however, risks deepening societal divides and contradicting the principles of an inclusive and democratic society.
As India approaches the 2024 elections, the BJP’s focus on majoritarian identity politics may not guarantee electoral success. The party faces a significant challenge in addressing caste and communal fault lines, which could potentially target other marginalized communities in the future.
The Kanwar Yatra food row highlights a broader issue of communal dog-whistling in politics, overshadowing the spirit of ‘Sabka Saath, Sabka Vikas’ (Together with All, Development for All). Instead of perpetuating past prejudices, the government should strive to build a future grounded in inclusivity and mutual respect.
In a personal anecdote, the author recalls enjoying chicken curry at Munnas Kitchen on a UP highway, owned by Mohammed Khan. Such experiences exemplify the essence of India’s culinary diversity and the importance of embracing it in a spirit of unity.
